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Hydraulic Caliper Rebuild
Avid Juicy 7 Brakes
- Avid Juicy Ultimate Disc Brake System user reviews: 3.7 out of 5 - 57 reviews. Read it's strength, weaknesses, find deals and pricing - mtbr.com.
- Sep 06, 2014 Avid Juicy 7 Brake reviews. See how the Avid Juicy 7 rates and read other Brake reviews.
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Put the Hammer Down: Lessons Learned on Hydraulic Disk Brake Pad Replacement & Rebuild
View and Download Avid Technology Speed Dial 7 installation and operation instructions online. Bicycle brakes. Speed Dial 7 Bicycle Accessories pdf manual download. Also for: Speed dial sl. Sep 02, 2013 OEM replacement for rebuilding your Avid Juicy 5s or 7s. I used this kit to rebuild my Juicy 7 rear caliper. I bought a Caliper pressure foot kit (i.e. B004QCGGU6, i.e. The brake pistons inside the caliper, as well but surprisingly, the pressure foot kit came with o-rings not pictured and I didn't need this Caliper Rebuild kit's parts.
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This summer I had to rebuild and bleed one of the calipers on my Avid Juicy 7s. I thought I’d share both the story of the screw up that got me there, as well as some tips for the rebuild process, in particular a great work-around if you don’t have the air compressor required to remove the pistons according to Avid’s rebuild instructions.
First the story. Avid provides very clear and simple instructions for replacing brake pads: push the pistons back, remove the old pads, click in the new ones. No where does it say you need a hammer, so when I found myself reaching for one, I really should have known better. For some reason my new pads weren’t clicking in, and a thought a little love tap might be just the thing to drive them home. Bad idea. The pistons are made of a hard brittle material, and few taps was all it took to break one off.
I’ve been working on bikes as an amateur mechanic for about 20 years. Pretty much everything I’ve learned has been from breaking something, like when I was 17 and I cross-threaded the BB shell on my first mountain bike when I tried to screw the left cup into the right side. The take home message: if it seems like you are applying more force than you should (and especially if little shards of threads are falling out), stop, you are probably doing something wrong. Too bad that after 20 years I had’t learned this lesson yet.
I’ve been running hydraulics for about 10 years, but have always left anything beyond a simple pad replacement to the pros. Now, with my mechanic-esteem at an all time low, I needed a chance at redemption, and decided it was time to learn how to fix my brakes myself.
Honestly, the most difficult part of the rebuild was summoning the courage to e-mail the story of my foolishness to the entire Bikeman team list. Hard as it was, I knew my teammates would have the answers I needed. They clued me in that the original problem with the pistons not retracting was most likely too much fluid in the system. Probably a result of the last bleed that had done at a local shop. The lesson here is that if you follow Avid’s instructions of rocking a screwdriver back & forth between the old brake pads, and the pistons still won’t retract enough to get the new pads in, put the hammer down! and instead open the bleed screw to let a little fluid out.
Avid Juicy 7 Manual
They also told me that the broken piston was fixable. I would need two Avid kits for this job: the caliper rebuild kit and a bleed kit (Avid makes dozens of rebuild kits, so order carefully for your system). Another valuable resource was SRAM’s excellent service site, which has tech manuals for all SRAM products going back several years. The caliper kit contains everything needed to replace all the parts in caliper - bolts w/ loctite, seals, pistons - except the two caliper body-halves. No instructions, though, so I had to turn to the Avid Technical Manual (2009 version for Juicy 7s).
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These instructions were easy to follow, until I got to the step requiring an air compressor, which I don’t have. The air compressor is needed to push the pistons out. You don’t want to try to grab or pry the pistons with tools because they are brittle and you will break them and/or scratch the piston bore in the caliper body which would compromise smooth operation and the seal.
So for the compressor step I figured out a simple work-around using a floor pump, inflation needle, a couple rubber or cork stoppers, some metal bars, and clamps. See photo.
The metal bars were from my scrap can. I cut them to length and drilled a hole in the center of one for the inflation needle. I also drilled one of the corks to accept the needle snugly. I inserted the needle though the bar and the cork, and clamped the cork and caliper together with the two bars. Then I gradually pressurized the caliper with the floor pump until the piston popped out. Warning: the piston may extend slowly, but when it finally pops out it will fly like a bullet and spray hydraulic fluid. Cover the caliper with a rag before you start to pressurize to keep things contained. Also, if you aren't wearing them already, safety glasses are not a bad idea at this point either. Another note: for outer caliper body, you will need a second stopper so you can plug both holes. I’m convinced that this work-around is better than the compressor idea anyway. It seems like you’d risk damaging the threads with the compressor barb, and you have better control of the process with a floor pump and everything clamped together.
After the rebuild, I had to bleed the brake. Once again I found Avid’s kit easy to use and the instructions easy to follow. This kit does come with instructions, as well as spacers for a wide range of brake models (Juicy, Code, and Elixir). A bike stand is very helpful, as is a loop of old bike tube to hold the brake lever in.
So, that was it. A couple hours in the basement and my pride was restored and my bike was back in action. And I'll save the hammer for carpentry projects.
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